What-Washington-Eats Wednesdays: Paul Wolfowitz and the Neocon Style

Today, the White House named current Goldman Sachs executive and former trade representative, Robert Zoellick, to replace Paul Wolfowitz at the helm of the World Bank group. Poor Wolfie...Is Saha worth it? Is it true that he couldn't manage himself out of a paper bag? What about what some of his detractors (at Salon) might say:

"The simple fact is that Wolfowitz has throughout his entire career demonstrated a penchant for cronyism and for smearing and marginalizing perceived rivals as tactics for getting his way. He has been arrogant and highhanded in dismissing the views of wiser and more informed experts, exhibiting a narcissism that is also apparent in his personal life. Indeed, these tactics are typical of what might be called the 'neoconservative style.'"

So where does a neocon go for grub in this town? Some might guess somewhere expensive and stuffy...like 1789:

Situated in a Federal period house in residential Georgetown, 1789 Restaurant is known around Washington DC for fine dining and elegant ambience. Decorated with American antiques, period equestrian and historical prints and Limoges china, its five dining rooms offer comfortable surroundings.

One of the few Washington, D.C. restaurants with a dress code, 1789 requires that men wear a jacket. In addition, jeans and athletic wear are not permitted.

Nothing says "for us only Americana" as equestrian historical prints and a dress code. Perfect!

Despite all that, [former]** executive chef, Ris Lacoste (who is actually friendly, warm, and engaging) has won dozens of awards and accolades for her creations and has helped to make 1789 a real stand out. Frommer's had to say this about her work:

Lacoste varies her menus daily, but two dishes for which she's especially known are the oyster and champagne stew with Smithfield ham and walnuts and the roast rack of Colorado lamb with creamy feta potatoes au gratin in red-pepper-purée-infused Merlot sauce. Also look for appetizers of lobster tart on puffed pastry with mushrooms, leeks, and tarragon, or grilled quail with barley and mushrooms, and entrees that range from osso buco with risotto Milanese, to ginger glazed sea scallops with pea shoots, mango, and curried pistachio rice. A hot fudge sundae is one of several decadent dessert options.

*This Wednesday series is dedicated to what (in)famous Washingtonians eat.
**see totally awesome comment about new Chef Beauchamp by an earnest reader with a malfunctioning irony meter

"They'd love you in Asia because you have big eyes"

What? Yeah, someone actually said that to me last night. First, I don't have big eyes. Second (and perhaps related), they ignore me in Asia.

This is what happens when you have one too many Japanese beers on a beautiful evening on the rooftop deck at Perry's: There's a stretch for connections to all things Asian. Like the menu...there's a Japanese touch, although most of it is nouvelle American. They have pretty decent sushi and the crowd is always lovely. This evening there was a group of Norwegians. They're really beautiful people. Seriously. (I digress.) It's a great place to go even if you just want drinks. They have an extensive beer and wine menu and the service is very friendly.

But if it's food you want, check out my "review" of their mussels here. Also, here's what starchefs.com says about Perry's very talented sushi chef, Noriaki Yasutake:

Noriaki Yasutake, the inventive sushi chef at Perry’s, was inspired to follow a culinary path by his father, a sushi chef who owned and operated the family restaurant in Fukuoka City, Japan. At 18, Yasutake came to the US to pursue his training and continue honing his craft as a sushi chef by working for his uncle at Matsuba in Bethesda, Maryland. From there Yasutake went on to work in New York with mentor sushi chefs Haruo Ohbu at Inagiku Restaurant and Hiroshi Nakahara at Bond Street Sushi. Yasutake took home second place in the World Sushi Olympics in London this October with his Fish and Chips Roll, a dish that expresses his evolving style. The Roll is built from a crispy tempura batter intensely flavored with dashi, rolled in fragrant shiso and nori and topped with a quenelle of fluke tartare. The roll is garnished with a wasabi tartar sauce, sweetened with pickled ginger rather than the traditional chopped cornichons. For an extra crunch Yasutake garnishes the roll with two impossibly thin and crisp potato fries.

What-Washington-Eats Wednesdays: Monica Goodling

Washington's latest 'Monica', the former Justice liaison to the White House, testified before the House Judiciary Committee today after being granted full immunity. She denied playing a major role in the firings of U.S. Attorneys last year, and basically fingered DAG, Paul McNulty, for misleading Congress.

Expecting an emotional and tearful testimony, House staff strategically placed a box of tissues nearby. She let them down. She didn't cry. In fact, she stood her ground. Yet, she was not exactly the image of the strong, sharp, Ivy League-pedigreed Washington lawyer one would expect. Instead, she came across a bit provincial, a tad pedestrian.

I venture to guess Ms. Goodling's favorite eats may include chicken and biscuits at Cheesecake Factory or, when she's feeling really crazy, the lo mein combo at PF Chang's--both conveniently located next to malls everywhere.

*This Wednesday series is dedicated to what (in)famous Washingtonians eat.

I Made This! Sauteed Calamari and Linguine with Tomato Basil Raw Sauce

(I know, this doesn't look amazing, but it tasted pretty fantastic!)

After months of eating out almost every night, I've decided to get back to cooking. I love cooking as much as I love eating. However cliche or maudlin this may sound, there's something spiritual and nourishing about preparing a meal. I stopped by the grocery store on my walk home from work and picked up some fresh squid, parmigiano, linguine, and a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc.

I wanted to make a light Italian meal with simple little courses. In this case, I could only muster up two. And I'm not sure they're entirely Italian or in the proper order. Here's what I did:

Primo (the first course): Sauteed fresh whole calamari with garlic and a side of asparagus.

Trimmed the asparagus and sauteed them in garlic and olive oil. Removed them from the pan. I then dusted the raw squid with a little flour and seasoned lightly with salt and pepper. Sauteed it in the same olive oil until slightly brown.

Secondo (the second course): linguine dressed with basil, garlic and tomato raw sauce

I coarsely chopped and squeezed the tomatoes into a bowl and added to them chopped fresh garlic, a bunch of torn fresh basil, a generous grating of parmigiano reggiano, and about two tablespoons of olive oil. Then added the warm pasta to the ingredients. The heat from the cooked pasta wilted the basil slightly and softened the tomatoes, which readily yielded their juices. Added some red pepper flakes and more parmigiano before serving.

What a simple and gratifying Monday night meal. You should try it. Email me if you need the exact recipe...but I do everything by sight and taste, so I would only be guessing...

Short Cuts at Cafe La Ruche

Decided to try Cafe La Ruche the other night. Many times we walked by the quaint little yellow-facade building off of M Street in Georgetown. The restaurant has more curb appeal than anything else...

La ruche is French for beehive. Cute...but not so much on the inside. In fact, it's a little gross. I don't know what was worse, the service or the food. "Jean-Pierre", our server, was a large sweaty man in an old t-shirt and apron (he reminded me a little bit of either a Super Mario Brother or Khalid Sheik Mohammad). At any rate, if he represented the best foot forward in the "front of the house"...I was afraid to imagine the kitchen. [Shudder.] (Actually, I imagine the kitchen to be a scene out of National Lampoon's European vacation, where they heat up frozen dinners in the micro.) I know many restaurants use shortcuts in their food preparation, but it was really apparent at La Ruche.

I had a watery "potage pariesienne"--translation some leeks and a few potatoes floating in salt water. We also tried the crab soup. It tasted remarkably similar to Campbell's tomato soup with a bit of Old Bay. The canard d'orange was an amazing feat of grease and dryness. The skin was appropriately crispy, but the over-generous dousing of jarred Chinese duck sauce turned parts of it into a candied, gooey mess. It was served with a lifeless combination of yellow and green squash and some diner-like seasoned potatoes. Then there were the mussels. A let down. They sat atop a bit of tomato sauce that might have been soup at one point. Not strong enough to flavor the mussels. And not enough of it to keep the little shelled creatures moist. Matt had the flank steak that was covered in a brown "reduction". It was A-1. Heated.

I think this place is more for desserts and coffee than dinner. A cafe, indeed is supposed to be simple dishes like quiche and baguette sandwiches. They did have a good selection of "french toast-wiches" like Croque Monsieur and Madame. We should have gone with those.

I don't think I'll go again...

What-Washington-Eats Wednesdays: Fred Thompson

Republicans are red-meat eaters and Fred Thompson is apparently no exception...kinda. When asked about his favorite food to cook, his response: “Democrat’s head.” I guess that would make him a blue-meat eater. At any rate, Freddy may have very well frequented Capital Grille when he was the Senator from Tennessee. CG is a serious meat place. Paneled walls, club-like (as in cigars and high-armed leather chairs--not glow sticks and white pants) atmosphere, incredibly rich dry-aged beef, and an impressive selection of over 400 wine offerings make this a big daddy sort of establishment. And Mr. Thompson is quintessentially big-daddy. As an actor he always played authoritative figures: a White House chief of staff, a director of the Central Intelligence Agency, a highly placed F.B.I. agent, a rear admiral, even a senator.

Here's what CityGuide has to say about the "bastion of beef":

Capitol Hill types flock to this bastion of beef, even those who prefer seafood or veggies. So do locals celebrating big events and tourists in the know. Slabs of beef satisfy the biggest carnivore, as do lamb and veal chops. But succulent salmon and luscious lobster fill a seafood need. Vegetarians in tow can dine nicely on massive baked potatoes, salads and sides. Martini seekers love the "create your own" bar, and the wine list -- more than 300 strong with many by the glass -- pleases the fussiest wine critic. Service is warm without being gushy.

Hank's: Like a Day at the Cape

The rule of thumb for raw oysters is to eat them in months that end in ‘r’—the cooler months when the chance of bacterial contamination is lower. Well, you can get them year-round at Hank’s Oyster Bar in Dupont Circle. Hank’s is New England beach food at its best: simple, fun, and unpretentious. This time of year they get oysters shipped/flown in from the Pacific Northwest. Recently, we had the absolute best time eating some beauties from Washington State and also tried some from British Columbia. I prefer the briny and crisp taste of east coast oysters, but some of these west coasters surprised me by their strong and salty flavor (they're usually creamier and softer on the palette). Perfect with lemon and hot sauce. Skip the cocktail or mignonette. Tobasco is the only way to go. Add a wheat beer, side of garlic steamed broccolini and Old Bay fries and it’s like you’re on the Cape...in your flip flops...and patchwork madras pedal pushers. You get the image.